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You know how they say you can’t have too much of a good thing? Tell that to someone with oily skin and see if they agree. We need oil to keep our skin soft and to maintain the barrier that keeps moisture in and environmental irritants out. But too much oil feels greasy, looks shiny, and leads to acne breakouts.
Suffice it to say, the instinct to try to scrub away all the excess oil messing with your complexion is strong. But here’s the problem: Aggressively getting rid of the natural sebum, or oil, in your skin can actually cause even more oil to be produced. Tragic, we know. We spoke to several dermatologists, who showed us a bunch of ways that fighting oily skin can just make the situation worse. Here are nine habits making your oily skin even oilier—and expert ways to stop the vicious (or should we say viscous?) cycle.
When your forehead is gleaming like a spotlight, it’s no surprise that you’re tempted to wash it, and then wash it again, until all of the oil is gone. “Overwashing your skin may feel like a short-term solution for removing the oil slick from your face, but in reality it is providing feedback to your skin that the oil is being stripped,” Melanie D. Palm, M.D., San Diego–based dermatologist, cosmetic surgeon, and founding director of Art of Skin MD, tells SELF. “In response, your skin thinks that this oil needs to be replaced, which results in over production of oil and irritation from overabundant cleanser use.”
Her advice is to stick to twice-a-day cleansing—once in the morning to create a fresh palette for sunscreen and makeup, and once at night to rid the skin of makeup and environmental pollutants from the day.
If your skin is oily, you may think that means it doesn’t need to be moisturized—but think again. Skipping moisturizer could actually make your skin more oily than it was to begin with. “Believe it or not, a moisturizer will add moisture to the skin, minimizing the skin's perception that it is too dry,” explains Stanley Kovak, M.D., cosmetic physician at Kovak Cosmetic Center. “Adding moisture to the skin actually helps reduce the oiliness because it helps slow down sebum production.”
If you are already over-producing oil, Dr. Palm says to stay away from any products that could obstruct the oil gland, hair follicle, or pores. They’ll increase the likelihood of breakouts. While sometimes it takes trial and error to figure out which products break you out and which ones don’t, but the best place to start is with ones that are labeled as non-comedogenic, which means they won’t plug up your pores, trapping oil underneath.
When you can’t seem to get rid of your skin’s shine, you might be tempted to reach for a product that promises to scrub it away. However, dermatologists warn that scrubbing the skin actually causes the skin to produce more oil in response (obviously this is a theme). Instead of an aggressive exfoliation, Jerome Garden, M.D., the director of the Physicians Laser and Dermatology Institute in Chicago, recommends using a salicylic acid treatment. “Salicylic acid is lipophilic, which means it is able to dissolve oils,” he explains. “This allows it to penetrate into the pores and dry out your oily skin.”
Indeed, salicylic acid can be a wonder ingredient for those with oily skin, but you have to be careful not to go overboard with it. “Salicylic acid does help exfoliate the skin and remove the dead layer of skin that can clog up pores,” says Dr.Kovak. “However, if you are using salicylic acid too frequently, you can actually cause too much dryness of the skin. In response, the body actually produces more oil, making your skin more oily and more acne prone.” So instead of using salicylic face wash, peel pads, and spot treatment, choose just one way to incorporate this exfoliating ingredient into your routine.
For most people with oily skin, toners are like the superhero of skin-care products. They’re aces at pulling excess oil, dirt, and grease from the skin, leaving it feeling squeaky clean. But that feeling might actually be a sign that the product is doing its job too well. “Patients with oily skin think a harsh, alcohol-based toner or astringent is the answer to their oil-banishing wishes. However, a harsh astringent merely strips the skin making it feel taut and itchy, even pink,” says Dr. Palm. “The skin tries to compensate—if oil is stripped away then oil will be produced from the oil glands to replace it.” Most derms say toner is not a necessary step, but if you love it, try to find something sans alcohol.
When your skin is over-producing oil, clogged pores are inevitable. While electric cleansing brushes, like Clarisonic’s Mia 2 Facial Cleansing Brush ($169), can be helpful, keep use to once a day. “Overuse sometimes has a paradoxical effect,” explains Dr. Palm. “Instead of cleansing skin and removing oil, overuse may stimulate more oil production.”
If you have oily skin, you are already over-producing some of the natural moisturizing factors that keep the skin barrier intact, so you don’t want to add another layer of oiliness on top. Dr. Garden recommends looking for oil-free foundations, concealers, and primers. Some great choices for people with oily skin are Fenty Beauty Pro Filt'r Soft Matte Longwear Foundation ($34), Bobbi Brown Skin Long-Wear Weightless Foundation SPF 15 ($46), and Dior Diorskin Forever Undercover Foundation ($52).
In this hectic age, it’s no surprise you feel stressed out to the max. You’re probably well aware of the havoc stress can reap on your physical and mental health, but might not realize it has its effect on your skin, too. “When we’re stressed our body produces an excess amount of cortisol, which causes a hormonal reaction that can lead to breakouts,” explains Dr. Kovak. “We then try to cover up these breakouts with more makeup and product that leads to more breakouts. Before we know it, we’re too stressed to know where to begin fixing the problem.” While it might not seem like a normal part of a skin-care routine, taking some time to breathe now and then can help stop the stress-breakout cycle.
