- Common name: snowdrop
- Botanical name: Galanthus
- Family: Amaryllis (Amaryllidaceae)
- Type: Bulb
- Flowering season: Late winter
- Planting season: February-April or August-September
- Height: 5-30cm (2-12in)
- Spread: 10-20cm (4-8in)
- Aspect: Semi-shade
- Hardiness: H5
- Difficulty: Easy to average
Snowdrops are a joy when they burst through the ground and bloom at the harsh end of winter, lighting up the garden and signalling that spring is not far away. The clumps of white bells provide vital nectar for early-foraging bees and are one of the best plants for woodland-style gardens. Spreading by way of bulb offsets, they form pools and streams of white flowers that wind between the trees and gradually merge into vast carpets.
Although the common snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis) is a British wildflower, it is not native and was introduced from the wilds of central, southern, or eastern Europe. There are 21 other species, many of which hail from western Asia, with the centre of diversity in and around Turkey and the Caucasus. G. nivalis was cultivated here by 1597, when it appeared in Gerard's Herball, but may have been introduced earlier by monks, since there are many old plantings of snowdrops at monasteries.
The genus name comes from the Greek gála (milk) and ánthos (flower), making the flower sacred to all mother goddesses. It also belongs to Persephone, Queen of the Underworld, who brought snowdrops with her when she returned from Hades in spring. They are therefore symbols of the afterlife, which explains the old folklore that taking them indoors brings death into the house and why they are often grown in graveyards (such as St Botolph's in Swyncombe, Oxfordshire).
The Victorians associated snowdrops with chastity and went gaga for them from the 1850s when more species began to arrive. In 1874, British plant hunter Henry Elwes found one of the best garden forms: the greater snowdrop (G. elwesii), growing at the edge of a forest in Turkey. Elwes was also responsible for distributing varieties, such as the fabulous 'S. Arnott', which smells of honey and almonds. Another important snowdrop aficionado was James Allen, who grew over 100 varieties in his Somerset garden, exchanged knowledge and bulbs with other collectors, and introduced exciting hybrids, such as 'Magnet' and 'Galatea'. His work became widely known at the Snowdrop Conference of 1891, during which he promoted the excellent 'Atkinsii' variety and encouraged people to cultivate snowdrops on 'a gently sloping bank, more or less shaded by trees'.
Today, experts (such as Elwes and Allen) and amateurs who become addicted to collecting different types of snowdrops are known as galanthophiles. It is thought that the term was coined in the early 20th century by gardener E.A. Bowles, who began a letter to a fellow snowdrop collector by writing 'Dear galanthophile . . .' Snowdrop collecting reached a peak in the Victorian era and the early 1900s, before dwindling, and has re-emerged with vigour over the past decade. The record for the most spent on a single snowdrop bulb is £1,850, paid on eBay in 2022 for 'Golden Tears', a new variety with yellow ovaries that was introduced by Joe Sharman at Monksilver Nursery. At snowdrop events, security guards now have to be employed because collectors have been prey for thieves. Such madness is comparable to the tulip mania of Holland in the 17th century, and to the present-day worldwide lust for orchids, which circulate on the black market and sell for eye-watering sums. Galanthophilia is unique in that it is a largely British phenomenon.
But not everyone catches the bug. The late gardener Christopher Lloyd remarked that 'galanthophiles can easily become galanthobores' and become more and more afflicted with galanthophilia as their collection of snowdrops grows. 'A genuine nutter might have upwards of 300 and still be far from sated,' he declared. From a distance, most snowdrops look the same, so growing the expensive bulbs might seem a bit like the Emperor's new clothes. This is certainly true when it comes to naturalising in a woodland garden – viewed as white swathes of flowers, it doesn't matter which type of snowdrop they are; unless you are 3 years old or prepared to bend down to peer at the blooms, they are all bell-shaped white flowers. The only time the differences become apparent is when snowdrops are grown in a rockery or border that allows them to be seen close up, and it is then that one begins to notice the distinct differences in flower size and shape, in markings, and in texture. To most of us, these differences are only mildly interesting; so, should you catch yourself feeling a flush of excitement at the thought of a snowdrop with green stripes or yellow blotches, be warned that you could be in the early stages of galanthophilia, for which there is no known cure.
Which snowdrops to grow
The common snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis, is excellent and the most affordable for mass plantings, and, like all single-flowered snowdrops, it provides food for bees. However, there are lesser-known species that are also superb: the pleated snowdrop (G. plicatus) is hardy and healthy; the greater snowdrop (G. elwesii) has glaucous leaves, bears larger flowers on taller stems than G. nivalis, and often flowers from December. For a long season, Queen Olga's snowdrop (G. reginae-olgae) gets going in October, and the giant snowdrop (G. woronowii) flowers in March.
Of the 2,500 varieties available, many are incredibly expensive – often costing £5 to £50 per bulb, or more. For this reason, they are best planted where they can be admired close up. 'Mrs Macnamara' is an impressive tall, large-flowered form of G. elwesii; 'Augustus' and 'Diggory' have globular lamp-like blooms that resemble white crêpe paper; while 'Blewbury Tart' and 'Viridapice' are tipped emerald.
The best varieties for naturalising include the double form of G. nivalis, 'Flore Pleno', which has generous green and white flowers like layered petticoat skirts and is available low-cost for large-scale plantings. 'Atkinsii' (a super-sized, elegant form) and 'S. Arnott' (the best snowdrop for scent) are slightly more expensive, but arguably worth splashing out on, since they expand into clumps with vigour and have outstanding flowers.
Recommended specialist suppliers include Broadleigh, Cambo, Pottertons, and Edrom nurseries.
When to plant snowdrops
Snowdrops can either be planted during or just after flowering, while they are 'in the green' (before their leaves die back) in late winter or spring. Alternatively, they can be planted as dormant bulbs at the end of summer or in early autumn. Some experts argue that the latter is the better option, since transplanting 'in the green' can damage the root system. However, 'in the green' is perfectly reliable as long as the bulbs are handled with care by your supplier and when planting. If you decide to opt for dormant bulbs, never purchase them from supermarkets or garden centres, since they are likely to have dried out – while tulip bulbs don't mind a little desiccation, it is often fatal for a snowdrop. Therefore, dormant bulbs must only be bought from a reliable specialist supplier and ought to be planted as soon as possible after they arrive.
If you already have a lot of early-flowering bulbs in the garden, 'in the green' is a good option, as you know you won't be planting upon (and, possibly, skewering) other bulbs, since they will be in leaf and therefore visible.
How to plant snowdrops
Snowdrops thrive in semi-shade, especially under and around deciduous trees and shrubs. They enjoy good, fertile soil that is moist, but well-drained, so fork in leaf mould or compost and grit before planting. Plant at three times the depth of the bulb, on a day when the ground is not frozen or waterlogged. Should your snowdrops arrive when the soil is hard with ice, sit them in a container of compost in a frost-free place (such as a garage) until you are able to plant.
They pair well with other early bloomers that enjoy humus-rich soil in semi-shade, such as Lenten rose (Helleborus x hybridus), aconite (Eranthis hyemalis), and eastern cyclamen (Cyclamen coum).
How to naturalise snowdrops
In the right conditions, snowdrops are very easy to grow and will spread with gusto, forming lakes of white. There is no need to plant big gangs of bulbs – just 3 or 4 will gradually create a generous clump a few years later. Once the gaggles look congested (every 3 to 5 years), it is time to divide them: gently lift the bulbs in March or early April using a fork, and separate them carefully (so as not to damage the roots), before replanting.
The best place to naturalise them is under or near deciduous trees because it will save you having to mulch. Snowdrops don't require a lot of feeding, but benefit from a dressing of peat-free compost or leaf mould every couple of years when planted in the open. However, the annual decomposing leaf matter of deciduous trees will provide all the organic matter they need.
Snowdrop pests and diseases
If affected by snowdrop grey mould (Botrytis galanthina) or narcissus leaf scorch (Didymella curtisii), snowdrops should be lifted and destroyed. These fungal diseases are more likely to occur during mild, wet weather, and G. plicatus is less susceptible than G. nivalis. It has been known for mice to nibble the flowers, and, in a mild winter, slugs and snails may also eat them. Squirrels sometimes dig up dormant bulbs planted in late summer or early autumn.
