As my teaching in Galway straddled a weekend, we took advantage of the location and snuck off to the Burren for a couple of days where, fortuitously, the sun shone and our waterproofs stayed packed in the bottoms of our rucksacks. The Burren is an area of limestone geology mostly in County Clare in the west of Ireland, noted for its botanical diversity. Some of these plants (such as spring gentian – Gentiana verna) we already knew from Upper Teesdale but the Burren is much larger and the mild Atlantic climate allows some unique plant assemblages to thrive.
Of particular interest are the extensive areas of limestone pavement, whose grikes are crowded with the wild flowers for which the area is famous. This is a classic feature of Karst landscapes influenced by glaciers. In Britain, the best-known site is Malham Tarn in north Yorkshire, though the pavements themselves did not make it into my most recent series of posts from that region (see “Building landscapes …”). But I’m in Ireland now, looking out at limestone pavement on a scale that dwarfs anything Yorkshire has to offer and I’ve also found a way of weaving this landscape feature into a blog primarily concerned with algae…
The surface of the limestone pavement is pitted with solution hollows – depressions typically 30 cm or more in diameter that probably formed at points where rainwater collected, starting a slow process of chemical and physical erosion. The mild acidity of rainwater gradually dissolves the limestone, but achingly slowly – probably no more than five millimetres of limestone is removed every 100 years – so the hollows that I photographed for this post were several thousand years in the making.
There were unprepossessing dark-brown lumps at the bottom of several of these which could easily have passed for some type of animal droppings. Close-inspection, however, showed these to have a gelatinous quality rather than the fibrous nature we might expect if these were droppings. These are colonies of the cyanobacterium Nostoc commune, a frequent subject on this blog. The last time I wrote about these in detail I explained how neglected patches of Nostoc on the gravel roadway of a Cumbrian farm were the pioneer stage of plant succession (see “How to make an ecosystem (2)”) and we are seeing exactly the same process happening here on the Burren. First, the tough, resilient colonies of Nostoc arrive, capable of surviving both the high radiation experienced on the light-coloured limestone and the long periods of desiccation. Nostoc, moreover, has the ability to fix atmospheric nitrogen, effectively acting as a natural “fertilizer”. Slowly, over time, the Nostoc traps windblown soil and creates a “soil” within which mosses and higher plants can take root. The early arrivals are likely to be grasses and sedges, but we saw a wide range of plants, including orchids, growing in solution hollows.
We mostly live in places where the local rock has already been weathered into soils, or where other natural processes have dumped weathered rock from elsewhere. So we rarely stop to consider where soil comes from. It is only in a few places such as a limestone pavement that we can see the primordial stages of soil – and, therefore, habitat – creation taking place under our noses. Even here, the process is very slow but, nonetheless, we can stand on the Burren and reflect that at one point in the past, everywhere was bare rock, and if it were not for unphotogenic brown blobs that might pass for animal droppings, it would never have been converted into soil at all.
References
Cabot, D. & Goodwilie, R. (2018). The Burren. New Naturalist, HarperCollins, London.
Doddy, P. & Roden, C.M. (2014). The nature of the black deposit occurring in solution hollows on the limestone pavement of the Burren, Co. Clare. Biology and Environment: Proceedings of the Royal Irish Academy 114B: 71-77.
Doddy, P. & Roden, C.M. (2018). The fertile rock: productivity and erosion in limestone solution hollows of the Burren, Co. Clare. Biology and Environment: Proceedings of the Royal Irish Academy 118B: 1-12.
Some other highlights from this week:
Wrote this whilst listening to: musical methadone to ease the cold turkey arising from a week and a half in Ireland. In particular, Glen Hansard’s band The Frames and The Corrs. What’s their connection? (answer at the bottom)
Currently reading: David Cabot and Roger Goodwillie’s New Naturalist volume on The Burren.
Cultural highlight: while I was in Ireland, I started watching the adaptation of Sally Rooney’s Conversations with Friends on the RTE Player.
Culinary highlight: Dinner at The Cliffs of Moher hotel at Liscannor featuring a baked fillet of John Dory and a rather good fondant potato followed by a splendid sunset.
Answer: Glen Hansard and The Corrs all had roles in the 1991 film The Commitments.